Mehmet Ozay 25.03.2018<\/p>\n
Nusantara\u2019n\u0131n kuzeyinde A\u00e7e b\u00f6lgesinde bulunmu\u015f, hasbel kader A\u00e7e\u2019nin yak\u0131n ve uzak tarihine dair bir\u015feyler \u00f6\u011frenmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f bir ki\u015fi olarak Snouck Hurgronje\u2019nin mezar\u0131yla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fmak ne anlama gelir diye bir soru sorabilir miyim kendime? Hurgronje d\u00f6neminin de\u011fil, Nusantara tarihi ele al\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131nda t\u00fcm d\u00f6nemlerin en \u00f6nemli oryantalisti olmas\u0131yla dikkat \u00e7ekerken, sadece eserleriyle kendini ortaya koymu\u015f ve nesnesi k\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir toplumu ve co\u011frafyay\u0131 anlamland\u0131rm\u0131\u015f de\u011fil. Aksine, bunun \u00f6tesinde fiili olarak bizatihi d\u00f6neminin s\u00f6m\u00fcrge y\u00f6netimi politikalar\u0131nda yer alm\u0131\u015f, Hollanda s\u00f6m\u00fcrge y\u00f6netiminin din ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr i\u015flerinden sorumlu tutulmu\u015f biridir Hurgronje.<\/p>\n
Hani \u015fu iki ciltlik, Felemenk\u00e7e kaleme ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 ard\u0131ndan, 1906 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u0130ngilizceye \u00e7evrilen A\u00e7e sosyal-antropolojisinin vazge\u00e7ilmez kayna\u011f\u0131. Tabii, Hurgronje\u2019\u0131n A\u00e7e topraklar\u0131nda sadece dokuz ay gibi k\u0131sa bir s\u00fcre kalmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, bu donan\u0131ma nas\u0131l eri\u015fti\u011fini ancak s\u00fcre\u00e7 i\u00e7erisinde ba\u015fka kaynaklara ve d\u00f6nemin etkile\u015fimlerine bakarak anlamland\u0131rmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olabilir.<\/p>\n
Hac konusu \u00fczerinde \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalara konu\u015flanmakla birlikte, akl\u0131na Nusantara d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncesi yer etmeye ba\u015flamas\u0131yla birlikte, yollara d\u00fc\u015fen Hurgronje\u2019nin, bir M\u00fcsl\u00fcman kimli\u011fiyle sadece yakla\u015f\u0131k dokuz ay gibi k\u0131sa bir s\u00fcre Cidde ve Mekke\u2019de bulunurken ba\u015fta A\u00e7eliler olmak \u00fczere b\u00f6lge hac\u0131lardan toplad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bilgiler elbette kayda de\u011fer bir nitelik ve \u00f6nem arz ediyordu. Ancak \u00f6yle anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor ki, daha Kutsal Topraklar\u2019a n\u00fcfuz etmeden \u00f6nce, hangi konuda ilerleyece\u011fine karar vermi\u015f ve akabinde Leiden\u2019daki k\u00fct\u00fcphaneyi epeyce bir ar\u015f\u0131nlam\u0131\u015f olmal\u0131 diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum.<\/p>\n
B\u00f6ylece, A\u00e7e ve Malay Tak\u0131madalar\u0131\u2019n\u0131n geneli hakk\u0131ndaki ilk \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n\u0131 daha Hollanda\u2019dayken ortaya koymu\u015f olmal\u0131. Akabinde s\u00f6m\u00fcrge y\u00f6netimine dan\u0131\u015fman olarak atanmas\u0131 onu bizzat A\u00e7e topraklar\u0131na s\u00fcr\u00fckledi. Yine t\u0131pk\u0131 Hicaz b\u00f6lgesinde oldu\u011fu gibi, burada da a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 yukar\u0131 dokuz ay gibi bir s\u00fcre kalmas\u0131 herhalde bir tesad\u00fcf olmal\u0131. Ard\u0131ndan uzun y\u0131llar s\u00f6m\u00fcrge ba\u015fkenti Batavya\u2019da g\u00f6rev yapan Hurgronje, t\u00fcm s\u00fcre\u00e7lerde elde etti\u011fi verileri biraraya getirmek suretiyle yukar\u0131da dikkat \u00e7ekti\u011fim \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131 ortaya koydu. Ve bu eser bug\u00fcne kadar da b\u00f6lgeyi \u00e7al\u0131\u015fanlar i\u00e7in ba\u015fucu kitab\u0131 olmay\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr.<\/p>\n
\u0130\u015fte b\u00f6yle bir \u2018\u015fahs\u0131n\u2019 ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 mek\u00e2nda bulunurken, mezar\u0131n\u0131 ziyaret etmemek olmaz diyerek bir sabah yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131m. Yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131m dedi\u011fim, zaten ayn\u0131 mahalde bulundu\u011fumdan ziyaretimi bu belirli g\u00fcne denk getirmemden kaynaklan\u0131yor. \u00dcniversite binalar\u0131n\u0131n ve kiliselerin oldu\u011fu birbirine kanallarla ve darac\u0131k sokaklarla ili\u015ftirilen tarihi mek\u00e2nda pedal \u00e7evirirken, gps yerine, son derece insani ve ileti\u015fime a\u00e7\u0131k yolu tercih ederek k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck i\u015fletmelerinin \u00f6n\u00fcnde \u00f6\u011fleden sonras\u0131 men\u00fcs\u00fc i\u00e7in bir \u015feyler do\u011frayarak haz\u0131rl\u0131k yapan orta ya\u015flarda bir \u00e7ifte yakla\u015farak -tahminimden hareketle- buralarda bir mezarl\u0131k oldu\u011funu ve tarif edip edemeyeceklerini sordum.<\/p>\n
Nezaketime ayn\u0131 \u015fekilde kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k alman\u0131n memnuniyetini bir an i\u00e7imde hissettim. Tarif bir yana, han\u0131mefendi yerinden kalk\u0131p bisikletini alarak bana bizzat mihmandarl\u0131k yapt\u0131. \u201c\u00d6nce size bir iki yer g\u00f6sterece\u011fim. Ard\u0131ndan mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2026\u201d dedi. Dar sokaklar\u0131 ge\u00e7erek beni bir binaya getirdi. Buras\u0131n\u0131n Reformcular\u0131n yak\u0131p y\u0131kmas\u0131ndan kurtulan nadide yerlerden biri oldu\u011funu ve bug\u00fcnse art\u0131k ba\u011fl\u0131 bulundu\u011fu vak\u0131f taraf\u0131ndan binalar\u0131n kiraya verildi\u011fini s\u00f6yledi. Buras\u0131 Hollanda\u2019n\u0131n en eski cam i\u015flemelerinin oldu\u011fu \u2018\u015fapel\u2019e ev sahipli\u011fi yap\u0131yor. 1492 y\u0131l\u0131nda Saint Anne Sadaka Evi ad\u0131yla kurulmu\u015f.<\/p>\n
Ard\u0131ndan yine birka\u00e7 sokak \u00f6tede bir ba\u015fka mek\u00e2na ge\u00e7tik. Buras\u0131 da kurulu\u015fu 1664\u2019e tarihlenen bir sadaka evi\u2026 \u0130\u015fte Leiden kamp\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fc \u00e7evreleyen tarih b\u00f6ylesine kadim bir ge\u00e7mi\u015fe sahip. Tabii mek\u00e2nlar bu ziyaret etti\u011fim iki bina ile s\u0131n\u0131rl\u0131 de\u011fil elbette. Ancak bu Snouck\u2019un mezar\u0131na girizg\u00e2h olmas\u0131 anlam\u0131nda \u00f6nemli. Katolik bir ge\u00e7mi\u015ften, Reformasyona, oradan s\u00f6m\u00fcrgecili\u011fe ge\u00e7i\u015f yapan Felemenk devletinin, Malay M\u00fcsl\u00fcman d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n d\u00f6neminin tek ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z devleti diyebilece\u011fimiz A\u00e7e topraklar\u0131ndaki istilas\u0131 ve bu istilan\u0131n onlar ad\u0131na ba\u015far\u0131yla ger\u00e7ekle\u015fmesindeki rol\u00fcyle Snouck Hurgronje \u00f6nemli bir isim.<\/p>\n
Bu k\u0131sa ziyaretlerle bir yandan da mezarl\u0131\u011fa do\u011fru yakla\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 fark ediyordum. Han\u0131mefendi, yolu g\u00f6sterirken, bende bu k\u0131sa ancak \u00f6nemli ziyaretler i\u00e7in kendisine te\u015fekk\u00fcrleri sundum. Mezarl\u0131k uzun bir yolun tam sonundayd\u0131. Demir kap\u0131s\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131k, ancak gireni \u00e7\u0131kan\u0131 olmayan bir mek\u00e2n\u2026 \u0130\u015fte \u015fehrin De Waard b\u00f6lgesindeki mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131nday\u0131m\u2026<\/p>\n
Giri\u015finde herhangi bir yaz\u0131n\u0131n bulunmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 mezarl\u0131k sanki kendi haline b\u0131rak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir izlenim b\u0131rak\u0131yordu insanda. Biraz da bu intibay\u0131 olumsuzlar \u015fekilde, hemen sa\u011f tarafta mezarl\u0131k haritas\u0131 g\u00f6z\u00fcme \u00e7arpt\u0131. Haritada A, B, C vs. \u015feklinde belirtilen parsellerde numaraland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f mezarlar yer al\u0131yordu. Her bir numaran\u0131n yan\u0131nda mezarda yatan ki\u015finin ad\u0131 ve mesle\u011fi yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n
Bundan anla\u015f\u0131laca\u011f\u0131 \u00fczere De Waard mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131 genel halka a\u00e7\u0131k bir mezarl\u0131k olmaktan \u00f6te, hayattayken se\u00e7kin i\u015fler yapm\u0131\u015f, ulusuna devletine faydal\u0131 olmu\u015f m\u00fczisyen, sanat\u00e7\u0131, bilim adam\u0131 vb. \u015fahsiyetlere ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Tabloda yer alan k\u0131sa bilgiye g\u00f6re, Reform kilisesi taraf\u0131ndan 1813 y\u0131l\u0131nda a\u00e7\u0131lan mezarl\u0131k, kilise bah\u00e7esine g\u00f6m\u00fc i\u015fleminin yasaklanmas\u0131 \u00fczerine 1829 y\u0131l\u0131ndan itibaren \u015fehrin \u00f6nde gelen zevat\u0131 buraya defnedilmeye ba\u015flanm\u0131\u015f. Tabloda yaz\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u015fekliyle s\u00f6ylemek gerekirse mezarl\u0131kta 69 mezar yer al\u0131yor. Tabii 69 diyorum, ancak bu listedeki isimlere g\u00f6re. Ancak her mezarda \u00fc\u00e7, d\u00f6rt ki\u015finin bulundu\u011funu mezar ta\u015flar\u0131ndaki isimlerden \u00e7\u0131kartmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. Dolay\u0131s\u0131yla bu say\u0131 mezarl\u0131ktaki ger\u00e7ek say\u0131s\u0131 yans\u0131tm\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
Snouck\u2019unki de bunlardan biri ve yer numaras\u0131 168B. Tam ad\u0131 Christiaan Snouck Hurgronje, i\u015fi Arap\u00e7a uzman\u0131 ve \u0130slamist olarak belirtilmi\u015f. Ve ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 evin adresi de yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f: Snouck Hurgronjehuis Rapenburg 61.<\/p>\n
Birka\u00e7 dakika sonra, A parselinin tam k\u00f6\u015fesinde bulunan Snouck Hurgronje\u2019nin mezar\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nday\u0131m. A\u00e7e\u2019nin belki son y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131na damgas\u0131n\u0131 vurdu\u011funu s\u00f6ylemekle abartmayaca\u011f\u0131m\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm Snouck\u2019un mezar\u0131\u2026 \u00dcrperiyorum bir an ve birka\u00e7 ad\u0131m geriye at\u0131yorum kendimi istemsiz bir \u015fekilde. Banda A\u00e7e\u2019de Hollanda Mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n d\u00fczen, intizam ve bak\u0131ml\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rlay\u0131nca biraz \u00fcz\u00fclmedim de\u011fil. Hollandal\u0131lar, kendilerine bunca eme\u011fi ge\u00e7mi\u015f bir adam\u0131n b\u0131rak\u0131n ayda y\u0131lda bir her g\u00fcn gelip mezar\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcslemeleri gerekirdi diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum. Ancak Snouck \u00f6yle anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor ki, Leiden ve Hollanda y\u00f6netimi taraf\u0131ndan \u00e7oktan unutulmu\u015f bile\u2026<\/p>\n
Protestanla\u015fman\u0131n bir y\u00f6nelimi olsa gerek, sadece Snouck\u2019un mezar\u0131 de\u011fil t\u00fcm mezarl\u0131k sade. Ha\u00e7 ise bir iki tane var. \u0130simlerin kaz\u0131l\u0131 oldu\u011fu devasa mezar ta\u015flar\u0131 dikine de\u011fil, toprak \u00fczerine gelecek \u015fekilde yerle\u015ftirilmi\u015f. Snouck\u2019un mezar ta\u015f\u0131nda d\u00f6rt ki\u015finin ad\u0131 var: 1)Anna Catharina Snouck Hurgronje, do\u011fum-3 September 1859\/vefat-5 Eyl\u00fcl 1880; 2)J. J. Snouck Hurgronje, do\u011fum-15 Haziran 1819\/vefat-12 \u015eubat 1892; 3) Jacobine Julie, do\u011fum-1 Aral\u0131k 1850\/vefat-12 \u015eubat 1892; 4) Christiaan Snouck Hurgronje, do\u011fum-8 \u015eubat 1857\/vefat-26 Haziran 1936.<\/p>\n
Snouck, Tak\u0131madalarda\u2019ki dan\u0131\u015fmanl\u0131k g\u00f6revinden d\u00f6nd\u00fckten sonra, Leiden \u00dcniversitesi\u2019nde \u00f6\u011fretim g\u00f6revlisi olarak \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Ancak Tak\u0131madalardaki \u00e7e\u015fitli ki\u015filerle yaz\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcrd\u00fc. ve 29 Nisan 1936 tarihinde vefat etti.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Mehmet \u00d6zay \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 22.07.2018 Nusantara\u2019n\u0131n kuzeyinde A\u00e7e b\u00f6lgesinde bulunmu\u015f, […]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[10,6],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2468","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-ace","category-gunluk-yazilar"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/guneydoguasyacalismalari.com\/indonesia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2468","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/guneydoguasyacalismalari.com\/indonesia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/guneydoguasyacalismalari.com\/indonesia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/guneydoguasyacalismalari.com\/indonesia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/guneydoguasyacalismalari.com\/indonesia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2468"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/guneydoguasyacalismalari.com\/indonesia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2468\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/guneydoguasyacalismalari.com\/indonesia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2468"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/guneydoguasyacalismalari.com\/indonesia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2468"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/guneydoguasyacalismalari.com\/indonesia\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2468"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}